Wines of Argentina

Trends from the World Beyond

In a country like ours, where the habit of uncorking a bottle every day is just beginning to take root, the issue of the new wine consumption trends may not mean much to us yet. For now, we are just going through an enchantment phase. We are impressed by prestigious brands; we are carried away by the reputation of winemakers and the tradition of the oldest and best renowned wineries; we leave aside young and fruity wines and only pay attention to dense and powerful ones, preferably if they come in heavy, opulent glass bottles, often bought at ridiculous prices. The phrase we usually say when we come upon such a wine is short and conclusive: “What a stunner of a wine”.

However, in countries with longer-standing wine consumption experience, these products are enjoyed by exclusive, sophisticated niche consumers. In general terms, the wines that people drink daily are simpler and more modest and it is that kind of wine which may determine the survival (or death) of winemakers, importers and distributors, and the economic future of companies. Regular consumption of high-end wines is mostly restricted to high executives and top businessmen.

Providing an answer to the question of what wines and styles prevail globally is a compelling issue to business managers. That is why this was the central subject of analysis for 12 Masters of Wine from three continents, who were present at the fourth edition of the Argentina Wine Awards in Mendoza last week and offered extremely interesting insights. Far from academic or lofty appreciations, the observations came from professionals who work as buyers for state monopolies, large supermarket chains, specialized wine shops, wine clubs, direct sale systems or as consultants for famous hotels and restaurants. What is In and What is Out? The following are the main conclusions of the seminar.

OUT

Protracted oak aging

Rosemary George (MW), renowned British writer and consultant, believes that lengthy aging in oak barrels is outdated. Today’s consumers look for fresh and fruity wines they can drink at any time and not necessarily with complex dishes or for special occasions. It is the new consumers who appreciate the young character of wines. Unlike more experienced and established drinkers who, in general, associate wine consumption with gastronomy, newcomers to wine usually open a bottle of wine to chat and brighten up an enjoyable moment. “It would be counterproductive to force them to drink intense, tannic, highly extracted wines,” said Sebastian Payne (MW), from London, chief wine buyer for The Wine Society, a private wine club that is close to its first 140 years of existence.

Thick and heavy bottles

“For the environment’s sake, let’s get rid of oversized bottles that are too heavy to hold,” stressed Rosemary George. The issue has come to such a point that English critic and writer Jancis Robinson recently urged her readers to report to her about those winemakers who make excessive use of these “mighty” containers. The premise was to boycott them. The main argument is that thick heavy bottles demand greater consumption of resources and energy, and are, therefore, harmful to the environment. On the other hand, a growing number of winemakers are turning to lighter containers.

Excessively acid or bitter wines

“Consumers nowadays seek wines that are less acid, less bitter and with little extraction and concentration,” emphasized Dirceu Vianna, the only male Master of Wine from Latin America, who added: “the only thing over-elaborate wines do is keep consumers away.”

IN

Freshness and purity

Most of these international experts sustain that, in order to achieve steadier, more continuous consumption, it is necessary to produce “well-balanced and well-rounded” wines, as characterized by Sheri Sauter Morano, the youngest woman to obtain the qualification of Master of Wine in the US. “Nowadays, the market tends to prefer lighter and more delicate and elegant wines,” she added. Jo Ahearne, the English Master of Wine, expounds on this and states that the three new key words are “purity, simplicity and balance.” She further claims that, as long as these features are present, every glass of wine will be a “pleasurable experience.”

The Organic Trend

All the experts agreed that the concern about global warming is leading consumers to choose sustainable wines more and more, that is to say, those elaborated according to organic and biodynamic practices. Although today people may still not search specifically for wines carrying the “green seal”, the demand for this kind of product will grow in the near future.

Innovative Varieties

Although it is a fact that classic varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are still popular, the possibilities of success are greater for wines made from varieties like Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Bonarda, Torrontes and Viognier, among others.

Twitter and Tourism

Sheri Sauter Morano explains that social networks have opened a new chapter in relation with opinion-making in wine matters, as they provide a forum for consumers to express their views on wine without fearing ridicule. Sebastian Payne, in turn, pointed out that modern consumers, when buying wine, expect to get something else than just a drink in a bottle: they wish to be told an enjoyable story or an anecdote and receive a sensory invitation to visit the wine regions in order to have a closer experience of the winemaking process. “It is important to encourage these romantic associations,” he suggested.

By Hugo Sabogal
www.cromos.com.co