Canada

Argentina shines in latest Vintages release

Note from www.thestar.com

Argentina has learned how to tango with modern styles of wine and it is fitting that three whites and 16 reds from that country are among the huge flock of new wines hitting Vintages shelves today.

Judging by emails from my readers, malbec is becoming a very popular red to explore. While $10-level malbecs can still be coarse and chunky in style, slightly pricier examples are achieving tons of finesse and complexity, thanks to a new generation of dedicated Argentine winemakers.

One Argentine white joined my ultimate winner's circle, the Vina Cobos Chardonnay reviewed here. None of the reds reached that lofty level, which was disappointing. Three reds did achieve a measure of distinction: Kaiken Ultra 2007 Malbec (#50849, $19.95, rating 88+/100), with mellow cedar, black cherry and black olive notes; Luigi Bosca Reserva 1006 Merlot (#143289, $16.95, 88+), with tar and mocha and black cherry density; and Luigi Bosca Reserva 2006 Syrah (#143412, $16.95, 89), with its tar, licorice and sweet-edged blackberry flavours.

The victor among the Argentine reds was the Zuccardi "Q" 2007 Malbec (#723478, $18.95, 89+), with its rich blackberry, black cherry and sweet marjoram charm. The Zuccardi "Q" Tempranillo (#973503, $18.95, 88) was a tad tart. This winery, of course, also produces the entry level Fuzion wines that caused such a chain reaction among Canadian consumers.

Several of the other Argentine selections rated down around 80 points and three tasted "buggy." So, buyer beware.

gstimmell@thestar.ca